Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Balenciaga Does Multicultural Interpretations

So, because my collection is shaping up to be bohemian, easy traveller, the concept of journey, and also linking this to my dissertation on the colonial discourse and its effects on traditional dress, I am looking at designers who re-interpret ethnic dress and does this well. Although I am not going in this direction of using 'ethnic' (it is a loaded and problematic term) dress as inspiration and I do not want my collection to have that particular look, but I think this is a very difficult area and you do have to be careful not to be too literal about it and be quite sensitive about your approach. Also for me, I am Chinese background, so I do not want to fall in the trap of looking into my culture and being a 'Chinese' designer. The example I am positing today is Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga fall 2007 collection. Also some quotes from his New York TImes Interview with Cathy Horyn.

http://runway.blogs.nytimes.com/2007/06/29/q-a-nicolas-ghesquiere/

" I wanted to evoke multiculturalism without being too literal — to put it in an urban situation. Even if you wear an African-inspired dress, a Balinese shape, the way you wear it in the city is with a greater sense of protection. I’ve always like the idea of protection but it was the first time I incorporated ethnic elements."
Q: Do you think designers have a hard time with ethnic?
A: Yes. Some designers, of course, are incredible at it. Azzedine [Alaïa] always did ethnic. Jean Paul Gaultier. But I would say it’s never easy to take it out of its context. You refer to an African queen or a Chinese shape, and it’s not easy for the rest of the people to wear it. There’s not much that is twisted in ethnic-inspired fashion, if I can say that. You know all the raves, the techno parties, which are huge and where the kids all wear khakis and parkas with African things? That’s what I wanted to evoke a little bit. It’s a bit aggressive.

Falll 2007 Collection:













Nicolas Ghesquiere re-interpreted the 'ethnicity' and multiculturalism so well in this collection because he used a mixture of bright fluro colours with the traditional colours we associate with 'ethnic' dress. He also uses silhouettes and details in a quirky way, where a particular detail was for pants he used a dress or on a collar. Sometimes he added preppy elements the mix with scarf shapes etc. 



2 comments:

M said...

Yay! Comment!

I agree, its interesting. I think this was amazing because it wasn't overtly/overly drawing upon ethnic dress. The "colonialist" overtones weren't there so much.. You couldn't so much identify one particular culture in there, it was more...worldly...?

I wont put my foot in my mouth because you are the expert, but I think it was done really well both from this point of view and also because not many people are willing to go around wearing what is basically a sari/cheongsam/whatever around these days unless they are either one of those people that feel they belong to a particular culture other than their own (wont go into that) or "alternative"/hippy/waitress in an exotic restaurant... ;)

Apparently Marc Jacobs' SS2010 'afro' collection was also inspired by the idea of young travellers, less ethnic but more about the hiking/trekking movement with elements of Native American dress in it. More of the utilitarian aspect of travelling than the cultural, the places visited...

Jo Cao said...

Thanks for that feedback M,
yeh I totally agree with you. and I will check out the Marc Jacobs ss2010 collection!!